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General
Information
The earliest recorded society on Lombok was relatively small kingdom
of the Sasaks. The Sasak peoples were agriculturalists and animists
who practised ancestor and spirit worship. The original Sasaks are
believed to have come overland from north-west India or
Myanmar(Burma) in waves of migration that predated most Indonesian
ethnic group. Few relic remain from the old animist kingdoms, and
the majority of Sasaks today are Muslim, although animism has left
its mark on the culture.
Not much is known about Lombok before the 17th century, at which
time it was split into numerous, frequently squabbling states each
presided over by a Sasak "prince" - a disunity exploited by the
neighboring Balinese.
In the early 17th century, the Balinese from the eastern state of
Karangasem established colonies and took control of west Lombok. At
the same time, the roving Makassarese crosed the strait from their
colonies in west Sumbawa and established settlements in east Lombok.
This conflict of interests ended with the war of 1677-8, in which
the Makassarese were booted off the island and east Lombok
temporarily reverted to the rule of the Sasak princes. Balinese
control was soon reasserted and by 1740 or 1750 the whole island was
in their hands.
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While the Balinese were now the masters of Lombok, the basis of
their control in west and east Lombok was quite different. In west
Lombok, relations between the Balinese and the Sasaks were
relatively harmonious. The Sasak peasants, who adhered to the
mystical Wektu Telu interpretation of Islam, easily assimilated
Balinese Hinduism, participated in Balinese religious festivities
and worshipped at the same shrines. Intermarriage between Balinese
and Sasaks was common.
The western Sasaks were organised into similar irrigation
associations (subak) that the Balinese used for wet-rice
agriculture. The traditional Sasak village government, presided over
by a chief, was done away with and the peasants were ruled directly
by the rajah or a land owning Balinese aristocrat.
Things were very different in the east, where the recently defeated
Sasak aristocracy hung in Limbo. Here the Balinese had to maintain
control from garrisoned forts and, although the traditional village
government remained intact, the village chief was reduced to little
more than a tax collector for the local Balinese district head (punggawa)
The Balinese ruled like feudal kings, assuming control of the land
from the Sasak peasants and reducing them to the level of serfs.
With their power and land-holdings slashed, the Sasak aritocracy of
eastern Lombok was hostile to the Balinese. The peasants remained
loyal to their former Sasak rulers, and supported rebellions in
1855, 1871 and 1891.
Geography
Lombok lies 8 degrees south of the equator and stretches some 80km
east to west and about the same distance north to south. It is
dominated by the second highest mountain in Indonesia, GUNUNG
RINJANI, which soars to 3726m. It has a large caldera with a crater
lake, Segara Anak, 600m below the rim, and a new volcanic cone which
has formed in the center. Rinjani last erupted in 1994, and evidence
of this can be seen in the fresh lava and yellow sulphur around the
inner cone.
Central Lombok, to the south of Rinjani is similar to Bali, with
rich alluvial plains and fields irrigated by water flowing from the
mountains. In the far south and east it is drier, with scrubby,
barren hills. This area gets little rain and often has droughts
which can last for months. In recent years, several dams have been
built, so the abundant rain-fall of the wet season can be retained
for irrigation throughout the year.
Climate
In Lombok's dry season - from June to September - the heat can be
scorching. At night, particularly at higher elevations, the
temperature can drop so much a sweater and light jacket are
necessary. The wet season extends from October and January the
wettest months.
Flora & Fauna
The 19th century naturalist Sir Alfred Wallace (1822 - 1913) observe
great differences in fauna between Bali and Lombok - as great as the
differences between Africa and South America. In particular. He
postulated that during the ice ages when sea levels were lower,
animals could have moved by land from what is now mainland Asia all
the way to Bali, but the deep Lombok strait would always have been a
barrier. Thus he drew a line between Bali and Lombok, which he
believed market the biological division between Asia and Austaralia.
Plant life, on the other hand, does not display such a sharp
division, but there is a gradual transition from predominantly Asian
rainforest species to mostly Australian plants like eucalypts and
acacias, which are better suited to long dry periods. This is
associated with the lower rainfall as one moves east of Java.
Environmental differences, including those in the natural
vegetation, are now thought to provide a better explanation of the
distribution of animal species than Wallace's theory about limits to
their original migrations.
Modern bio-geographers do recognize a distinction between Asian and
Australian fauna, but the boundary between the regions is regarded
as much fuzzier than Wallace's line. This transitional zone between
Asia and Australia is nevertheless referred to as "WALACEA"
Population & Language
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Lombok has a population of 2.4 million (1990 census), with the
majority living and around the principal centers of Mataram, Praya
and Selong. Almost 90% of the people are Sasak, about 10% are
Balinese, and there are minority population of Chinese, Javanese and
Arabs.
Most people on Lombok are bilingual, and speak their own ethnic
language (Sasak), as well as the national language, Bahasa
Indonesia, which they are taught at school and use as their formal
and official mode of communication.
Apart from those working in the tourist industry, few people on
Lombok speaks English, and this includes police and other officials.
Nevertheless, English is becoming more widely spoken on Lombok.
Money Changer
You can change cash and travelers cheques in major currencies at
banks and money changers in Mataram and the tourist centres Senggigi,
the Gilis and Kuta. Money changers normally offer more attractive
exchange rates than banks, but their rates are 10% to 15% lower than
a tourist service on Bali, so it's worth stocking up on rupiah if
you are arriving from Bali. In remotes area it is difficult to get
change, so always make sure you will carry a lot of small notes and
loose change.
Suggested Itineraries
You will need at least one week to fully appreciate Lombok, plus
another few days if you plan to climb Gunung Rinjani. Two weeks is
about all you need, unless you plan to do a lot of trekking,
sunbaking and exploring of traditional village.
Electricity
All parts of Indonesia utilize electricity supply is 220V. There are
some areas like Gili air, Gili Meno and Kuta, electricity supply is
limited, erratic or nonexistent. In these three tourist areas,
mid-range and up market hotels normally have small generators, but
chieper places may have no electricity at all, so bring candles and
a torch (flashlight).
Toilets
Lombok is relatively poor and undeveloped, so toilets in most
restaurants and budget hotels are more likely to be the squat-style
variety, and they won't provide toilet paper. Toilet paper is
available at general stores throughout Lombok, but if there's a bin
next to the toilet, use it to dispose of the paper so you do not
clog up their system.
Health
Most of the health considerations are the same as for Bali, except
that Malaria is a real risk on Lombok. We suggest you to consume the
Malaria tablets before visiting Lombok
Medical Services
There are a few decent hospital in Mataram, as well as less
salubrious public hospitals in Praya (Central Lombok) and Selong
(East Lombok). There is also a medical clinic for tourists in
Senggigi. For anything serious, go to Denpasar or even Singapore or
Darwin.
Post & Communications
The main post office in Mataram is the only one with a poste
restante service; other post offices will accept poste restante
mail, but then redirect it to Mataram. You can have mail sent to
your hotel, but it may take time. You can send and receive
international calls and faxes from private and telkom wartels
(public telephone offices) in most larger towns, for about the same
cost as in Bali. There is a Home Country Direct Dial telephone
inside the waiting room at the Mataram airport. The emergency
telephone numbers for Lombok are the same as on Bali. All of Lombok
is in the (0370) telephone area code. |
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